Frequently Asked Questions About cad services
Why are patterns made on a computer better?
How can markers made on a computer save me money?
Can you work from a sketch?
Can you work from specs?
Can you work from samples?
Can I bring you hard paper patterns?
Can I use store-bought patterns?
What's the difference between a knock-off and a rub-off?
I don't know very much about production sewing. Can
you analyze my patterns?
Can I get hard copies of the patterns?
I don't have my own grade rules. Can you help me
develop some?
Can I make adjustments to the patterns after the
grading is done and the markers are made?
Can I change my grade rules mid-stream?
What information do you need to give me a price quote
for CAD services?
How long does it take to get a pattern made?
Can you export files to Gerber cutting equipment?
How long do you store my pattern files on the CAD system?
How can I pay for these services?
Why are patterns
made on a computer better?
Making patterns on a CAD system such as ours allows for very precise drafting
and measurements. But the real advantage is that each pattern is stored
on the computer and adjustments can be made very quickly and easily. You
can also create new styles from old ones much faster than you can do it
on paper. If you have ever made patterns by hand, you know how time consuming
simply tracing and cutting out the new pieces can be even if you only
made minor changes. Finally, hard copies of patterns get so dog-eared,
bent, and generally abused that new copies have to be made often. If your
pattern is stored on a computer, printing new copies takes seconds—not
hours—and the copy matches the original exactly. Hand tracing can
create slight differences from copy to copy, which accumulate over time
and change the dimensions of the garment. Finally, if you use multiple
freelance pattern makers, you probably have a problem with sizing and
fit varying from pattern to pattern. Using a CAD system eliminates this
problem.
How can markers made on a computer
save me money?
By cutting downn on waste—sometimes dramatically. Hand made markers
are time consuming, and if you change your mind about the layout you have
to start over from the beginning. Because you can click, drag and nudge
pieces on the screen (rather than climbing around a cutting table and
hand-tracing them on paper) CAD systems allow the marker maker to play
with the pieces until she gets a good layout that minimizes waste. She
can also do it a lot faster. The better the layout is, the less fabric
you have to buy in the first place, and much less fabric gets left on
the cutting floor. Plus, outsourcing the grunt work allows your designers
to spend more time on product development.
Can you work from a sketch?
Yes. A good sketch will show both front and back views. You should include
important design details like the placing of seams, darts, closures and
other design features. It is most important that we know what type of
fabric you plan to use in this garment. Measurements and notes help too.
Don't worry if your sketch isn't a work of art. Simple line drawings are
clearest and carry more information than fashion illustrations!
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Can you work from
specs?
Specs work well for standard styles that you want specific measurements
for, or to give more detailed instructions for a sketch of a new style.
We can help you develop a spec sheet that can be used from development
right through to production.
Can you work
from samples?
Working from pre-existing samples is a good idea if you already have a
garment that has the fit, sihouette or style that you are trying to acheive,
but the closer the sample is to the final product the better--it should
be similar in weight, type of fabric, and seam placement (it is very difficult
to make a new pattern for a woven set-in sleeve shirt from a knit raglan
sleeved sweatshirt)! You can attach notes to explain any changes or adjustments.
Can I bring you hard
paper patterns?
This is the easiest of all. Bring us a pattern and we will digitize it
into our CAD system. Once that is done, we can make changes and adjustments
immediately.
Can
I use store-bought patterns?
You really shouldn't. For starters, you're probably violating copywright
law. If that's not scary enough, it's probably bad for your product line
as well--your sizing will be all over the map, and you won't really be
providing a unique product.
What's
the difference between a knock-off and a rub-off?
If you see a photo of someone in a $5000 gown and design your own much
cheaper copy--with your own fit, using different fabrics, etc--that's
a knock-off. If you take that $5000 gown, lay it down on pattern paper
and literally trace it to make your pattern, that's a rub-off. Different
designers (and their lawyers) draw the line between being inspired by
a design and outright stealing it in different places. Copyright law regarding
clothing is a current hot-button issue in the industry, but as long as
you feel comfortable that your designs are your own and you know that
you got your inspiration from different sources, you're probably OK.
I don't know very much about production
sewing. Can you analyze my patterns?
Absolutely. Our sewing floor supervisor works closely with the pattern
maker to ensure that your pattern is 'sewable'. Frequently we can suggest
changes to your pattern that will increase production efficiency without
changing style or fit.The major advantage to this is that we can make
sure right away that it fits right and is easy to sew—and therefore
cheaper to produce and easier for you to sell!
Can I get hard
copies of the patterns?
We can hand-cut manila patterns for an extra charge, but you won't really
need them. You can always get a paper copy of the pattern printed out—in
any size you want—on one of our high speed plotters. Plus, you'll
find that changes are made so easily with CAD equipment that your manila
patterns will quickly become obsolete!
I don't have my own grade rules.
Can you help me develop some?
We can help you develop new grade rules, or we can analyze your past styles
and come up with suggestions for updating your current grade rules. Take
advantage of our experienced staff—they're really good!
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Can I make
adjustments to the pattern even after the grading is done and the marker
is made?
Yes, but...If you make changes after the grading and marking are done,
we have to remake your markers in order for the changes to show up (and
we have to charge you for it!) In many cases, we must also reapply the
grade rules. To keep your development costs low, we recommend that you
approve the style and fit of the garment before we do the grading and
marking.
Can I
change my grade rules mid-stream?
Again, you can, but we will have to reapply them to all your styles for
the changes to take effect. If the markers are already made we will need
to make new ones. We generally recommend that you only change grade rules
at the beginning of a new season, when the least amount of pattern development
has been done. We don't recommend changing grade rules once production
has started or you run the risk of having stock with two different kinds
of sizing!
What information do you need to develop
a price quote for CAD services?
Our pricing is based on the number of pieces in the garment, the number
of different fabrics used in the garment (color blocking, linings, etc.),
the number of sizes that it comes in, the complexity of the garment, and
the number of pieces that will be on the marker. We have a price list
that will help you estimate your costs, but if you can give us a sample
or a detailed description, we can be much more precise about pricing.
Call 508-674-5773 and ask for Jim or Gwen to get started.
How long does
it take to get a pattern made?
It varies, depending on how much information you are able to give us to
start with, our current work load, how complex the patterns are, and how
many samples and revisions you have us make before the pattern is approved.
Can you export
files to Gerber cutting equipment?
Yes. We use Gerber Cad equipment, so we have the capability to interface
with a wide variety of Gerber's production equipment. We can deliver files
by disk or email—we’ve exchanged files with companies as far
away as South Korea!
How long do you store
my pattern files on the CAD system?
Pretty much indefinitely. We have a reliable Dell server that has plenty
of memory and is backed up daily. If your storage areas get too full of
old styles, we can make archival copies on floppy disks, cds, or zip disks.
We will never 'throw out' your data.
How can I pay for these
services?
We bill the same day that the patterns, samples or markers are finished
and shipped. First-time customers are usually shipped COD for the amount
of the bill plus shipping. Once you have established a credit record with
us, our standard terms are Net 7 Days. We accept business checks, money
orders, and certified checks. We do not accept credit cards.
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